Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always characterized its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
